Hiking the AT outside of Hot Springs, NC

Hiking in Winter

“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.” – John Muir

Hiking the AT outside of Hot Springs, NC

Winter is such a lovely time to take a hike in these hills.  There is nothing like a crisp, clear winter’s day with a thermos full of hot chocolate in my pack. The sky is incredibly blue and the hills turn a deep azure blue, mauve and purple color that is unique to this season of the year.

The forest is so open as all of the vegetation has fallen back.  It is easy to walk without a trail. You can just wander around in the forest and enjoy the quiet.

Hiking the Appalachian Trail near Hot Springs, NC

We often get periods of 60 to 70-degree weather in the winter. These days are such gifts and they call us out of doors with short-sleeved shirts and grinning faces. We often see wildlife such as deer, wild turkey, fox, coyote and even an occasional elk on our hikes.
Full Moon over Hot Springs, NC
The AT is a great place to hike in the winter as there are fewer hikers this time of year. It is possible to walk a great distance and encounter no one.  And, yet, it is a spectacular time to hike because of the views.  The AT runs along the ridges here on the border between NC and TN.  In fact, at the point where our trail meets the AT, you can stand with one foot in each state.

Hiking the AT at sunset in winter

You can also access the AT along several points in Hot Springs.  The pictures from this post were taken along the AT on the access point off of 25/70 just the other side of Hot Springs.  You simply go through Hot Springs and as you are coming up the mountain on the way toward Marshall, you turn left after you go under the underpass.  There is a  parking place at the gated road that crosses back over 25/70.  If the gate is open and you prefer, you can drive up to Mill Ridge from here and access the AT up at the top.  But, we like hiking north up over Rich Mountain.  The sun warms that side of the mountain in the afternoon and makes for a nice hike.  This day we were fortunate enough to witness the almost full moon rising as the sun was setting.

Looking glass rock

Hanging out on a Pluton

 

Autumn at Looking glass rock

What it the world is a Pluton?

Plutons are magical places in our ancient hills.  They are like huge rock bubbles that you can climb up to get some of the most spectacular views in the Blue Ridge.  The above picture is a view from John’s Rock overlooking another pluton, called Looking Glass Rock.  On this hike, Tom and I got to witness 2 beautiful bald eagles flying below us and fishing on the river.

This is a day trip from our cabins.  We actually left about 10 am and stopped in Waynesville, NC to grab some lunch at our favorite burger joint, the Church Street Depot, then off to the Shining Rock Wilderness area on Hwy 276.  This takes you past the Cradle of  Forestry, Sliding Rock and Looking Glass Falls to name just a few places along the way. So, leave earlier if you want to visit these along the way, then you will have the whole day to enjoy this area.  There is much to see.  The trailhead to both the plutons is just past Looking Glass Falls on forest service road 475 C which will be on your right.  Looking Glass Rock trail is on the right and then John Rock is on the left at the Pisgah Wildlife Center and Fish Hatchery.

The Best Views in the Blue Ridge are from the Top

We love the plutons.  There are two that you can climb. Although it is a bit of a challenge and fairly steep in places,  both trails are worth the climb.   These pictures are from our hike along the loop trail at John’s Rock.

Hiking Suggestion

Make sure you check the map at the kiosk at the trailhead so that you note the proper turns.  The trail is well marked with signs. The loop is explained in the link above.  It will take you by Cedar Rock Falls which is a beautiful spot to take a break, or a swim if it is warm enough.

Cedar Rock Falls

Looking Glass Rock: A  Vertical Challenge

Looking Glass Rock trail is more challenging, longer and steeper than the John Rock trail.  It is a spectacular climb for those who like to climb.  Therefore, this trail can be challenging and rocky in place.  Also, one must navigate some pretty rough and washed out places on the trail. However, the views are definitely worth the effort.

In addition, this is a coveted place for rock climbers.  Also, it is a rare nesting place for peregrine falcons. If you are lucky you will see them dive.  They are spectacular.

Looking glass rock

 

The Elk are Returning to Max Patch

The AT crosses the top of Max Patch

Mornings on Max are nothing short of a miracle.  This morning we shuttled some of our guests up for a hike down to the cabins.  This is a wonderful 9-mile hike down from 4629 feet to about 2900 feet of elevation at the cabins.

Tom and I took the opportunity to walk over the “roof of our world” here in Spring Creek.   Max Patch is the highest point in our area and it never disappoints us.

On this fine morning. we were witness to a brand new baby elk being born.  When I captured her on camera, the distance and glare made it difficult to notice the baby.  I was very curious as to why she was alone, grazing in an open field.   The bulls are often alone, but most of the time the females are in herds.

We hope you enjoy this video which we entitled the Magic Morning on Max Patch.

For several years now, the National Park Service has been working to re-establish the elk in the Appalachian region.  This beautiful doe probably wandered over from the Cataloochee area of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.   Or, perhaps she split off from the two herds that are pretty well established in the Harmon Den area just below Max Patch on the drive over to I-40.

 

 

Heart in the waterfall at Midnight Hole in the GSMNP

Swimming at Big Creek in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Best  Swimming Hole Ever

Jumping in a creek in summer is one of the most refreshing experiences the Southern Appalachians have to offer. For swimming in summer, we love to have a nice dipping hole with places from which to jump.  One of our favorites is Big Creek.

This  is a pristine creek that rushes down the mountain in the GSMNP.  Our favorite spot on the creek is  Midnight Hole.  Just past this is Mouse Creek Falls which is also quite beautiful.   The hike up to this special spot is fairly short and easy.  It is about 1.5 miles and begins in the  parking lot of the Big Creek Campground  which is on the exit 451 on I-40 just over the border in Tennessee.

Directions

From our cabins there are a couple of ways you can travel to this magical place.  If you have a truck or 4 wheel drive you can go on the dirt roads up and over the mountain.  But, I do not suggest this route if you have a car without much clearance.  The road can get washed out and it can be pretty bumpy and challenging.  However, if you don’t mind going slow and taking your time, it’s a great way to see wildlife.  There is an elk herd along the way and they are pretty easy to spot.  We have also seen bear driving this way.  The other ways you can go are either through Waynesville for through Newport, Tenn.

To go the rugged way, take Roaring Fork and turn right on Meadowfork road.  Go about  1.5 miles and you will see a brown sign that says Max Patch.  Turn right onto Little Creek Road.  Go to where the pavement ends.  We advise you to turn right on Poplar Gap loop road as this is paved.  It’s very windy, so go slow.   When you come to a stop sight you will be back to Little Creek Road,  turn right.  Go until you come to a T intersection and turn left.  There are no signs on this road.  (Max Patch would be to the right).   After you turn left,  take the first right toward Harmon’s Den.   This road will take you to I-40.  Take  I-40 west to Exit 451 and go to the Big Creek Campground.   The trail head is across the road from the bath house.

Swimming Midnight Hole at Big Creek in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park

Can you see the heart?

Swimming Big Creek in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park

Here is a short video from swimming at Big Creek today.

Swimming can happen in many spots along the trail.

Elk herd at Harmon Den

Elk Herd

The elk hang out between the Harmon Den horse camp and the Harmon Den parking area.  There is a beaver pond they like to play in and some fields where they like to graze.   They are not hunted, so they are very calm and easy to observe.  But, they are very large, so do be careful and keep your distance.

 

Hiking is endless at Dancing Sun Cabins

Hiking Tips

Here are some things to think about when hiking in our woods.

Max Patch hiking is the best
Max Patch is one of our favorite places to hike
  • Take a map along. We have provided maps for you to carry with you that will help you find your way in our forest and connect to the Appalachian Trail.
  • We take a Garmen GPS unit with us, but we ALWAYS compare it to our maps. GPS can get you lost around here and it rarely gives you a good idea about how long a trail might be.
  • The blazes for the AT are white. When you see 2 blazes, that means to pay attention as there is another trail crossing the AT.
  • In the summer, the understory gets thick with stinging nettles, poison ivy and blackberry vines. Come prepared for this, or plan to hike on trails that are heavily traveled.
  • We do have snakes here. Most are not poisonous. Rattle snakes make a pretty loud sound. Copperheads are shy and prefer not to be bothered. These are the only two kinds of snakes that are poisonous here. It is best just to leave them alone. If you should experience a snake bite, just stay calm and get to help. Slow breathing and keeping your heart rate low is the best treatment.
  • Yellow jackets can be ferocious if disturbed. Please be aware that they live in holes in the ground. It is best not to poke holes in the ground. If they come after you….RUN!!!! Run away from their nest and try to get them off of you. They can sting more than once. Jewel weed takes the sting away.
  • It is good to carry 50 mg of Benadryl and 150 mg of Zantac with you just in case you experience and allergic reaction.

Here is a link to little video on helpful and harmful plants you may encounter along the way.

Rankin Bottoms: A great place for bird watching

One of our favorite places to visit in the winter is Rankin Bottoms.

This unique wildlife area is located where the Nolichucky and French Broad rivers meet and enter Douglas Lake. This is a flood plane area.

The water level is managed by the TVA. The water level is dropped very low in the winter leaving mud flats and watering holes that are perfect areas for birds to gather. This high altitude swamp has unusual features such as Osage orange trees, Cyprus trees, and Honey Locusts.

This is often a warm sunny spot in the winter and a great place to see large birds such as Egrets and Herons. Geese,Sandpipers, Gulls and many other birds find this the perfect spot to feed. Check out what the Tennessee Ornithological Society has to say about this place. It’s incredible!

The landscape has unique plant life that create surreal colors and scenery. We find it a great place to wander.

​To reach Rankin Bottoms, you must travel to Newport, Tennessee. We advise going to Hot Springs and following 25/70. The road is not really closed even though the bridge is out. You can take Fugate Road, just go slow as the locals do. When you get to the end of Fugate, turn right on Hwy 107 and cross the bridge. Turn left toward Newport on 25/70.
Go through downtown Newport and bare right on Industrial Road. Stay on Industrial Road about 5 miles you will have to turn left to remain on Industrial road, the go another 5 miles until you reach Rankin Hill Road. There will be a Wildlife refuge sign here. The road follows the railroad tracks and is a little rough in places, though you do not have to have 4 wheel drive unless it is muddy.

Wolf Creek Falls excellent swim

Wasp and Wolf Creek Falls

Wolf Creek Falls

There is an easy way and a harder way.

First the easy way.

Wear shoes that you can get in the water with.  There is wading involved.

Drive to Hot Springs and turn left at Sara Jo’s gas station onto 25/70.   Go about 1.5 miles to Upper Shut-in road and turn left.  Go to the end of the road, it will turn to dirt and there may be a sign that says road closed.  That is ok.  Just go to the end where the forest service gate is usually closed.   You can park there without blocking the gate.

Hike beyond the gate and in about 1/2 mile you will come to a T intersection.  Turn left here and go until you come to the creek.  There is a construction site there for a new bridge.

Make your to the other side of the creek and turn right to follow the creek down to the waterfall.   You will come to a camping area.  Look for a small trail at the end of the camping area that is unmarked, to make your way down to the fall.  It is not a difficult trail.

T & R Rating
Excellent Hike! Excellent Swim!
Difficult
2000 ft total elevation
5 miles in and 5 miles out
10 miles total
Short areas of steep climbing, otherwise climb is gradual.

This favorite swim holes and hiking experiences is Wolf Creek Falls.  This is one of the most beautiful waterfalls around and is accessible for a swim.   We suggest you pack a lunch and head out with plenty of water.  We often stash a bottle of water along the way for the return trip home.

This hike begins right behind our house and goes up to the forest roads and AT as the others do.  It’s a tough hike, but it rewards you with a wonderful swimming experience is the clear waters of Wolf Creek.

So, head out behind the house and go up and through the fields. After about a mile you will come to a “T” intersection with a forest road. Turn left and go less than 1/4 mile and turn right onto an ATV trail. (If you get to the gate on the forest road you have gone to far)

Go up the ATV trail. This is a short steep climb (the steepest you will encounter on this trail)

In less than 1/4 mile you will reach the AT.  This is Kale Gap. Go straight across on an old road.  Continue on this road and you will come to a “Y” in less than 1/4 mile. Go to the right at this Y intersection and travel down.  You will walk over a mile down and eventually you will come to a “T” intersection with another old road.  DO NOT TURN LEFT here, but go right.  In less than 1/2 mile the road will come to a subtle “Y”.  You will go left here.  There are huge rocks on both sides of the road, a culvert to your left and a sign on the tree that say” US Forest Land closed to all vehicles” Continue down the road here. You will begin to see orange, yellow and blue marks on the trees that were marked for a timber sale years ago. Continue down this old road.  You are entering the area of the community of Wasp. In about a mile, you may notice a road to the Right.  Do NOT take this road. Continue straight.  You will cross a creek and bear to the right.  Here you will begin to follow the creek .  In less than 1/4 of a mile you can view a beautiful waterfall if you go over toward the creek.  You should be able to hear it.  There are, in fact, many places you can walk over to the edges of the rocks and view the creek as you walk down this section.

Not far after this waterfall, you will come to a road to the right. This leads into the old community of WASP.
(If you want to take this side trip, the road will cross a stream then you can begin looking for signs of old homesteads. Come back out this road to continue your hike to Wolf Creek falls)

To continue to Wolf Creek Falls

You will come upon an intersection with a road entering from the left. DO NOT TURN LEFT, stay on old road and continue walking down.

NOTE: Rattlesnake Gap Road sort of runs parallel to this old road you are on, but you do not want to get on this road too soon as it twists and turns and adds mileage.

Continue walking down the old road. Eventually you will come to a place where the old road almost joins the gravel road. Merge onto the gravel road here and turn right to go down. This is Rattlesnake Gap Road.

In less than 1/4 mile you will come to a sign that says Wolf Creek Falls 1/3 mile and points left.
Turn left here and cross Wolf Creek.  Go to the camping are.  To hike to the bottom of the falls, head out right from the camping area down by the creek.  (NOT the ATV trail) To head to the top, go left of the camping area.  Both are very short trails to the fall..not even 1/8 mile and provides privacy for a swim.

After your nice swim, rest, enjoy, replenish and prepare for your journey back.

 

Eagle fishing on the French Broad River

Murray’s Branch Hiking

Murray’s Branch is a great Winter’s day hike. It offers beautiful views of the French Broad River as it flows into Tennessee. You can do this as a loop trail or hook up with Jack Branch Trail blue blazes)which meanders on up the ridge and offers sweet spots to look up the river toward Hot Springs.

T & R Rating
Excellent Views
Moderate difficulty
1.3 mile loop trail
Yellow Blaze

Directions to Trail Head

Go to Hot Springs on Hwy 209. Continue across the French Broad as if you are going out of town and just on the other side of the river turn LEFT onto River Road. It will take a hard right and follow the river. The road turns to dirt and then you will come to Murray’s Branch Picnic area which is well marked. The trail takes off on the right hand side of the road across from the picnic area. It goes up to the ridge and follows the river up on the cliffs for beautiful views

Swimming Hole

If you follow the road on down to the paint creek you will come to a paved road.  If you stay on the lower road which is not a rough as the high road, you will come to Dudly Falls a great swimming hole.

 

.Eagle fishing on the French Broad River Dudly Falls French Broad River Easter Box Turtle found on our hike Forest in fall Paint Rock area

Paint Creek

Great Hiking, Biking and Swimming
Can be combined nicely with dinner or lunch in Hot Springs
Picnic tables available by the creek
Waterfalls, Beautiful Rocks, Views of the River, Picnic opportunities

To access this general area:

Drive to Hot Springs on Hwy 209 N.
Go through town and cross the French Broad River
Immediately after you cross the river, turn left to access River road.
At the stop sign, turn right to head downstream.Love Road is so romantic
This road takes you several miles down the river on a very scenic drive.

In a few miles, it will turn to a dirt road. Then you will come to Murray’s Branch Recreation area.
The parking lot is on the left and the trail begins on the right of the road, just before you enter the parking area.

Hiking at Murray’s Branch
T & R Rating
Moderate
Yellow Blazes
1.3 miles
This short loop has gentle switchbacks through the forest up the ridge. About 3/4 mile in you will come to a Y. This is the loop. Stay to the right to see incredible ridgetop views of the river. Continue on and this trail joins with another trail, that has blue blazes. It winds on in the woods but does not loop. You can add to your hike with this “in and out” section.

Paint Creek to Dudley Falls
Paint Creek Road is very passable, but is narrow with turnouts. You will have a choice to take the high road or the low road.

The upper road is best done in a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

The low road takes you to Dudley Falls. It takes you by a beautiful creek with lots of picnic opportunities. Dudley falls is a beautiful waterfall that is accessed by car. This is a great place to wander around and dip in the creek.

The campground is 5.5 miles up the paved road. There is a loop hiking trail that starts there.

We love to park at the bottom of the paved road and ride our bikes up to the campground and back. It is a lovely ride by the creek.

Shelton Laurel Area Hiking Pisgah National Forest

Swimming Holes in Shelton Laurel

We have just started exploring this area and we find it quite beautiful.
The trails here are remote and are more for those experienced in back country hiking.
Most require a drive up a forest road to get to the trail heads. This is not a well traveled area, so sometimes the trails are a little harder to read. It is important to know about trail safety and back woods travel before attempting these hikes.

Hickey Falls
T &R Rating
Excellent
2.3 miles one way (best done as in and out unless you know how to loop it with White Oak Trail) It is not well marked on how to do this loop. But the In and Out is easy to follow.
Difficult

This hike is very scenic. It is especially nice when the rhododendrons are blooming. The trail leaves FR 465 right at a gate. You cross the creek on a really nice bridge and follow the trail through the woods. It then joins the creek again and offers the traveler many chances to dip it some wonderful swimming holes. The falls are gorgeous and well worth the climb. The Trail continues past the falls, but we don’t advise this unless you are heading on to connect with another trail. It is very, very steep. If you turn around at the top of the falls, the hike is very pleasant back to the starting point.

To get to the trail head, go to Hot Springs and Follow 25/70 East towards Marshall. When you get to The Laurel River Store and where 25/70 takes a hard right at the river, turn left on 208 to to 212 and turn right. Drive until you see the brown sign for Hickey Falls trail. Turn left of FR 465 and follow the road up to the gate. The gate may be open or closed, but the trail head is right there.